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Saint Laurent Paris Shirt Fashion Reps

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Semicircular or triangular pads attached inside a garment to shape, raise, or widen the shoulders.

Shoulder pads are a type of textile-covered padding used in men's and women'southward clothing to give the wearer the illusion of having broader and less sloping shoulders. In the beginning, shoulder pads were shaped every bit a semicircle or small triangle and were stuffed with wool, cotton, or sawdust. They were positioned at the top of the sleeve to extend the shoulder line. A good example of this is their use in "leg o' mutton" sleeves or the smaller puffed sleeves which are based on styles from the 1890s. In men's styles, shoulder pads are often used in suits, jackets, and overcoats, unremarkably sewn at the superlative of the shoulder and fastened between the lining and the outer fabric layer. In women's habiliment, their inclusion depends on the style taste of the day. Although from a non-style point of view they are generally for people with narrow or sloping shoulders, there are also quite a few cases in which shoulder pads volition exist necessary for a suit or blazer in club to compensate for sure fabrics' natural backdrop, most notably suede blazers, due to the weight of the cloth. At that place are also periods when pads intended to exaggerate the width of the shoulders are favored. As such, they were pop additions to clothing (particularly business concern clothing) during the 1930s and 1940s; the 1980s (encompassing a menstruum from the late 1970s to the early 1990s); and the late 2000s to early 2010s.

1930 to 1945 [edit]

Shoulder pads originally became popular for women in the 1930s when fashion designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Marcel Rochas included them in their designs of 1931.[1] Though Rochas may take been the first to present them,[2] Schiaparelli was the about consistent in promoting them during the 1930s and '40s and information technology is her name that came to be most attached to them.[3] [4] Both designers had been influenced by the extravagant shoulder flanges and small waists of traditional Southeast Asian formalism dress.[v] [half-dozen] The following yr, Joan Crawford wore them in the film Letty Lynton [7] in a dress designed by costume designer Adrian. This dress was widely copied and sold in Macy's department stores, helping to popularize the await.[8] Costume designer Travis Banton's broad-shouldered designs for Marlene Dietrich also influenced public tastes.[9]

Before long, broad, padded shoulders dominated manner,[x] [eleven] seen even in eveningwear[12] and mayhap reaching a acme of variety in 1935-36,[13] when even Vionnet showed them;[xiv] [15] Rochas presented loftier, pinched-up shoulders;[xvi] and Piguet outdid even Rochas past extending his widened shoulders vertically like oars or paddles.[17] Amid all this competing extravagance, the widest shoulders were still said to come from Schiaparelli,[18] who hadn't given them upwards even when they briefly dropped out of favor with designers in 1933.[19]

War was in the air during this entire period, and style reflected it in epaulettes and other martial details,[20] [21] [22] but after World State of war II began in 1939, women's fashions became fifty-fifty more militarised.[23] [24] Jackets, coats, and even dresses in particular were influenced by masculine styles and shoulder pads became bulkier and were positioned at the acme of the shoulder to create a solid look that sloped slightly toward the neck.[25]

The shoulder-padded style had now go universal, establish in all garments except lingerie, so standard that when US designer Claire McCardell wanted to remove them from her garments in 1940, her financiers feared their sales would endure and insisted that pads exist retained. McCardell'southward innovative response was to put them in with very unproblematic stitching so that they could exist hands removed by the wearer, prefiguring the flexibility of the velcro-attached shoulder pads of the 1980s.[26] The post-obit yr, British designer Molyneux also eliminated shoulder pads,[27] office of a prophetic trend in high fashion that would exist carried further by Balenciaga in 1945[28] and culminate in Dior'southward gradient-shouldered 1947 Corolle collection.[29]

Large shoulders were however popular in 1945, when Joan Crawford wore a fur coat with wide, exaggerated shoulders, too designed past Adrian, in the film Mildred Pierce, but the popularity of shoulder pads with the public ultimately tapered off later in the decade, after the war was over and women yearned for a softer, more feminine wait.[xxx] Square-shouldered coats, nevertheless, were nevertheless worn over natural-shouldered garments into the early on 1950s.

In men'south style, zoot suits had their ain share of popularity. Basically, a zoot suit is based on a "regular" two-slice conform, yet one or two sizes larger, so it was supposed to exist padded "like a lunatic'south prison cell." [ citation needed ]

During this period, stiff, felt-covered cotton batting was the material used for most shoulder pads, a combination that allowed for easy adjustment[31] but didn't hold its shape very well when washed.[32]

1945 to 1970 [edit]

During the late 1940s to well-nigh 1951, some dresses featured a soft, smaller shoulder pad with so lilliputian padding equally to be barely noticeable. Its function seems to take been to slightly shape the shoulder line.

By the 1950s, shoulder pads appeared only in jackets and coats—not in dresses, knitwear or blouses as they had previously during the heyday of the early 1940s. By the early 1960s, these slowly became less noticeable and midway through the decade, shoulder pads had disappeared.

1970s [edit]

Shoulder pads made their next appearance in women's article of clothing in the early 1970s, through the influence of British fashion designer Barbara Hulanicki and her label Biba. Biba produced designs influenced by the styles of the 1930s and 1940s, and then a soft version of the shoulder pad was revived. Ossie Clark was another London designer using shoulder pads at the time. At the same time, a few Paris designers also presented padded shoulders with an explicit 1940s inspiration: Guy Laroche,[33] Michel Goma for Patou,[34] Valentino,[35] and Thierry Mugler[36] in 1971; Daniel Hechter in 1973;[37] Jean-Louis Scherrer in 1974;[38] and most notably Yves Saint Laurent in 1970 and '71.[39] [twoscore] [41] Such a small-scale, disparate handful of designers showing the look didn't constitute more than than a minor trend, one express by and large to fashion groupies in Paris and London, and thus these padded shoulders never reached mainstream acceptance[42] – Saint Laurent's forties-revival attempts in particular were widely criticized,[43] and and so the await was relatively limited in attain, with designers showing and the public preferring the relaxed, natural, ofttimes jeans-based clothing styles typical of the times.[44] [45] [46] [47] Saint Laurent did show an occasional padded-shoulder jacket scattered amidst his popular ethnic and peasant looks during the mid-seventies, but sensibly-proportioned, easy, and contemporary in appearance instead of being part of a forties look.[48]

For fall 1978, designers in all fashion capitals would suddenly endorse broad, padded shoulders across the board, introducing the broad-shouldered styles that would characterize the 1980s.[49] [l] [51] [52] [53] [54] In that location had been some signs of a movement toward broader shoulders the previous year,[55] but it would be a January 1978 collection from Yves Saint Laurent that would be cited as the get-go clear expression of the trend when Saint Laurent showed a handful of padded-shoulder jackets over slim trousers.[56] [57] [58] When well-nigh of the rest of the fashion globe showed wide-shouldered looks a couple of months after, in that location would be two singled-out versions of it. The kickoff, favored by Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Pierre Cardin, Jean-Claude de Luca, Anne Marie Beretta, France Andrevie,[59] and a number of others, was an explicit but exaggerated 1940s-revival silhouette[sixty] based largely on tailored suits and dresses, though more a slim-skirted haute couture forties look than the flared-skirt, Globe Globe II Utility Arrange-inspired shapes flirted with by Saint Laurent in the early on seventies. This first version was referred to as retro and included 1940s accessories,[61] [62] some mid-20th-century sci-fi looks,[63] [64] and military influences.[65] [66] The second was a more contemporary sportswear look in which shoulder pads were added to like shooting fish in a barrel simply slimmed-down casualwear, favored by designers similar Perry Ellis,[67] [68] Norma Kamali,[69] Calvin Klein,[70] and Giorgio Armani.[71]

This time, the shoulder line was usually continuous from outer edge to cervix, without the dip toward the center seen in the 1940s, and the pads used, even when enormous, were much lighter and held their shape better than the ones used in the 1940s,[72] at present most often made of foam and other lightweight, well-shaped, moldable materials.[73] As shoulder pads hadn't been this common in womenswear in decades, some in the fashion manufacture worried that the tailoring skills necessary for them had been lost.[74] [75] Initially, this big modify from the natural shoulder of the sixties and seventies would seem farthermost[76] [77] (and it often was,[78] [79] [80] with Pierre Cardin[81] and Claude Montana[82] even showing pagoda shoulders), but subdued versions of the new line were accepted by the public[83] [84] and the padded-shoulder look[85] was so strongly insisted on by designers starting in autumn 1978 that past the mid-1980s it would be ubiquitous amongst women on the street.[86]

Standard, mass-market menswear during the 1970s continued to feature standard, unobtrusive shoulder pads shaping suits and sport jackets, only more high fashion menswear basically followed the same trajectory as high fashion womenswear, with a delay of about a season or two. Thus, in that location was a removal of shoulder pads and other internal structuring during the easy, oversized, unconstructed Big Look or Soft Look era of the mid-seventies,[87] spearheaded in womenswear past Kenzo Takada in 1973-74[88] [89] and in menswear by Giorgio Armani a couple of years afterwards.[90] When loftier style womenswear reverted to highly structured garments with large shoulder pads for autumn of 1978, high fashion menswear followed suit the following year,[91] Cardin replicating his women's pagoda shoulders in his men'south suits[92] and fifty-fifty Armani calculation unusually pronounced shoulder pads to his men'due south jackets,[93] [94] a tendency that would continue during the following decade.

1980s [edit]

The early 1980s continued a trend begun in the tardily 1970s toward a resurgence of interest in the ladies' evening wear styles of the early 1940s, with peplums, batwing sleeves and other pattern elements of the times reinterpreted for a new market.[95] [96] [97] [98] [99] The shoulder pad helped ascertain the silhouette[100] and continued to be made in the cut foam versions introduced in the fall 1978 collections,[101] especially in well-cut suits reminiscent of the Earth War 2 era. British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher was internationally noted for her adoption of these fashions, though they were already very common at the time.[102] [103] Before too long, these masculinized shapes were adopted by women seeking success in the corporate world and became an icon of women'due south attempts to smash the glass ceiling, a mission that was also aided by their notable advent in the TV series Dynasty.[104]

As the decade wore on, shoulder pads became the defining way argument of the era, known as power dressing and bestowing the perception of status and position onto those who wore them. Fifty-fifty the nigh exaggerated shoulder pad sizes from the fall 1978 introduction of the tendency became accustomed and even ubiquitous amid the public by the mid-eighties.[105] Every garment from the brassiere upwards would come with its own fix of shoulder pads, with women frequently layering one shoulder-padded garment atop some other, a trend begun by designer Perry Ellis in 1978.[106] To prevent excessive shoulder padding, velcro was sewn onto the pads so that the wearer could choose how many sets to wear.[107] By the end of the era, some mass-market shoulder pads were the size of dinner plates, every bit large every bit the most exaggerated of the high fashion Thierry Mugler[108] and Claude Montana[109] pads shown at the fall 1978 start of the era.

1990s [edit]

The shoulder pad fashion carried over from the tardily 1980s with continued popularity in the early 1990s, but the wearer's tastes were changing due to the backfire against 1980s civilization. Some designers continued to produce ranges featuring shoulder pads into the mid-1990s, as shoulder pads were prominent in women'south formal suits, and matching top-bottom attire, highly exampled in earlier episodes of The Nanny from 1993 and 1994. Merely as the decade wore on, the styles were outdated and were shunned past young and style-witting wearers. Appearances were reduced to smaller, subtler versions augmenting the shoulder lines of jackets and coats.

2000s and 2010s [edit]

The tardily 2000s and early 2010s saw the resurgence of shoulder pads. Many immature women imitated pop artists, mainly Lady Gaga and Rihanna, who were known for their utilise of shoulder pads in their stylistic outfits. In that location was a big presence of shoulder pads on many runways, in fashion designer collections, and a revival of 1980s trends became mainstream amid many people who were interested in them. Past the 2009-2010 seasons, shoulder pads had made their manner back into the mainstream market place.[110] Past 2010 many retailers like Wal-Mart had shoulder pads on at least half of all women's tops and blouses.[111]

The late 2010s saw another resurgence of shoulder pads. With the rising of the Me Too movement and other female empowerment movements, the increase of women being elected to political positions, and a standing revival of 1980s trends, many are opting to wear apparel with shoulder pads.[112] [113]

See besides [edit]

  • 1930–1945 in fashion
  • 1980s way
  • Epaulette

References [edit]

  1. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Faddy History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli and Rochas introduced militaristic, wide shoulders, using shoulder pads for coats and jackets.
  2. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1930-1939". In Vogue: Lx Years of Celebrities and Way from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 106. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. ...Marcel Rochas...is given credit for the offset padded shoulders...
  3. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Faddy History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli...established the silhouette for several years to come.
  4. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Faddy: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Mode from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN0-xiv-00-4955-10. ...Dior's [New Look]...had been preceded past thirteen uninterrupted years of the foursquare-shouldered Schiaparelli-initiated look.
  5. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Faddy History of 20th Century Way. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Grouping. p. 112. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Both Rochas and Schiaparelli were influenced by the 1931 Exposition Coloniale in Paris, which showed wide-shouldered Javanese and Balinese costumes and Bangkok temple dancers with winged shoulders and tiny waists.
  6. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Faddy History of 20th Century Style. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Grouping. p. 123. ISBN0-670-80172-0. The Indo-Chinese costumes at the 'Exposition Coloniale' in Paris in 1931 inspired Schiaparelli and Rochas to imitate the extended shoulders by introducing shoulder pads.
  7. ^ Amy De La Haye 1988, Way Source Book, London, Quarto Publishing, 69, ISBN 0-356-15928-0
  8. ^ "Adrian, The Hatmaker'southward Son Who Dressed America - New England Historical Lodge". www.newenglandhistoricalsociety.com . Retrieved 2018-08-15 .
  9. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Faddy History of 20th Century Style. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 123. ISBN0-670-80172-0. ...[C]lothing designed by Travis Banton – broad-shouldered, outsized jackets... – was worn past Marlene Dietrich...[and] was widely copied.
  10. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Mode. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Grouping. pp. 122–123. ISBN0-670-80172-0. ...[T]he mainstream daytime silhouette established past 1934 prevailed until the cease of the war: a tightly waisted line with wide, if not padded, shoulders, and a straight, narrow skirt.
  11. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1932-33". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Faddy. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 132. ISBN0-fourteen-00-4955-10. Focus on the raised waist, emphasized by widened, heavier shoulders... The architectural Five from shoulders to small fitted waist...
  12. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Manner. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 110. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Almost evening dresses were...broad at the shoulders...
  13. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Faddy History of 20th Century Manner. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 141. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Everywhere wide shoulders hovered over tiny waists...
  14. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1935". Faddy History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 139. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Fifty-fifty Vionnet, the queen of femininity,...widened her shoulders...
  15. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Grouping. p. 142. ISBN0-670-80172-0. High shoulders were favoured by Vionnet...Vionnet['due south] shoulders stood square and high, with folded fullness at the top of the sleeves.
  16. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Mode. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 142, 143. ISBN0-670-80172-0. High shoulders were favored by...Rochas....Rochas's spring accommodate has potent shoulders...
  17. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 142. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Piguet's were shaped like canoe paddles, rising well-nigh to the ears.
  18. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Mode. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 141. ISBN0-670-80172-0. ...Schiaparelli['s]...padded shoulders were the widest...
  19. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1933". Vogue History of 20th Century Style. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 120. ISBN0-670-80172-0. The high point of the Paris autumn collections was the demise of shoulder padding – exaggeration was at present démodé. Only Schiaparelli continued to pad her...shoulders. Her choice prevailed.
  20. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1935". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 139. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Europe bristled with war scares and...the couture reflected the prevailing mood. Shirred breastplates put a brave front on evening clothes, crowns and cocks were printed on blouses, epaulettes broadened shoulders, and complect or frogging adorned well-nigh every chest.
  21. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1935-36". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 141. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. Daytime looks are astringent and war machine, with square epauletted shoulders, frogging, plumed hats...Schiaparelli leads the armed services campsite with regiments of fitted suits, drummer boy jackets and a forward 'putsch' of hats.
  22. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1938". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 151. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli's woollen capes with shoulders like an admiral's epaulettes, as well seen in more than modified versions at Alix and Molyneux.
  23. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Style from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 179. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. Suits ranged from the frankly military to the rather war machine...
  24. ^ Manchester, William (1975-03-02). "Manner is the Irresolute Woman". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2022-02-ten . Then came the war...One popular evening gown of the catamenia was adorned with a huge swooping Air Corps wing of gilded Iamé, beginning at one hip and curving upward across the bust to the reverse shoulder....[G]irls who had no intention of joining the Women's Regular army Corps wore copies of WAC hats decked out with sequins.
  25. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Mail service . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . In the '40s, the shoulder shape was what [shoulder-pad manufacturer Harold] Lopato calls 'saddle-shaped,' or sloping in the center. The pads were rigid.
  26. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1940". Faddy History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 158. ISBN0-670-80172-0. When [Claire McCardell] insisted on removing shoulder pads, which had prevailed since the early thirties,...her backers...considered this uncommercial. McCardell arrived at a compromise: she tacked shoulder pads inside so that they could be easily removed.
  27. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1941". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 161. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Molyneux, like McCardell in America, removed shoulder padding...
  28. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 178–179. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Balenciaga...softened and dropped the shoulder farther than any other couturier...
  29. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Lx Years of Celebrities and Way from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. [Dior's] New Look...arrived on 12 February 1947...Dior'due south...woman had soft cracking shoulders...
  30. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Faddy: Lx Years of Celebrities and Mode from British Faddy. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. [Westward]omen were eyeing clothes with passionate longing....[Dior's 1947] New Wait provoked extremes of delight in women, for whom each dress and adjust was an orgy of all things most feminine...Shoulders are gently natural.
  31. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . ...Elizabeth Simmons, owner of Ardis School of Design[,]...recommends cotton batting-filled pads...because they are more adjustable.
  32. ^ McEvoy, Marion (1978-eleven-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-eleven-21 . In the twoscore's,...shoulder pads were virtually always made of stiff cotton batting and covered with felt....The pads looked dandy until the clothes or glaze was done, in which instance there were noticeable lumps and bumps.
  33. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-28). "Givenchy: Elegance and More than". The New York Times: 41. Retrieved 2022-03-18 . ...Guy Laroche is concerned with the nineteen‐forties...[H]e made a large fuss over...wide-shouldered suits, bolero jackets, fluid crepe dresses with crepe capes á la Adrian and lots of other standards of that era.
  34. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-28). "Givenchy: Elegance and More". The New York Times: 41. Retrieved 2022-03-18 . The part of the nineteen-forties look that Michel Goma has taken to his heart at Patou is the wider shoulder. On the sheerer styles, yous can fifty-fifty see the pads.
  35. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-22). "Valentino Revivifies Fashions of 40'due south". The New York Times: 45. Retrieved 2022-03-18 . If he doesn't bring back wide shoulders, toppers and the hip‐length vests that were chosen jerkins, he at to the lowest degree may spur the render of the big bands and the Lindy Hop.
  36. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1971". Faddy History of 20th Century Mode. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 322. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Thierry Mugler showed his first collection in Paris, which concentrated on an angular, wide-shouldered cut reminiscent of the forties.
  37. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1973-04-04). "Kenzo Displays His Imagination With a Fun-Filled Way Bear witness in Paris". The New York Times: 38. Retrieved 2021-12-31 . Daniel Hechter is popular with women in their twenties and thirties. Guess what he'southward up to? Padded shoulders on boxy jackets and pleated skirts. Information technology'due south the kind of thing Yves Saint Laurent was hooted at for showing a couple of years ago.
  38. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1974-07-23). "Paris for Autumn: Listless Start and Why Revive the 40's?". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2022-01-24 . [L]ast flavour, Scherrer was immersed in the nineteen‐thirties look. Now he's moved on to the forties. Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russell and all that. Squared shoulders. Padded turbans. Extravagantly beaded evening dresse. Over again, glamour gowns for private clients. No guide to the future.
  39. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1970-07-24). "Saint Laurent, Ungaro and Dior: Many Styles, No New Look". The New York Times: 37. Retrieved 2021-12-03 . Yves Saint Laurent was skillful for a few laughs...An obvious tart...sashayed through the salon. She represented the spirit of the nineteen-forties....The first spurts of laughter were followed past nervous reflection....Was Saint Laurent making fun of the nineteen-forties–or the audience? Or was the whole collection one large parody of way?
  40. ^ "Saint Laurent Retorts". The New York Times: thirty. 1971-02-19. Retrieved 2022-01-eleven . Yves Saint Laurent'southward...Earth War II...expect...in football game shoulders and tight dresses...
  41. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-02-02). "Now Why Are They Throwing Brickbats at Saint Laurent?". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-03 . Yves Saint Laurent['s]...jump collection...recalled the terrible time of collaborationists in France, bombings in London and wartime austerity in the United States....The forties trend is...inescapable in the Saint Laurent clothes. His shoulders may not be the widest in Paris, but they seemed so.
  42. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-23). "Continuing the Aujard Collection". The Washington Mail service . Retrieved 2022-03-01 . [In 1971, designer Michele Aujard] put huge shoulder pads in her clothes, she says, because that's what Yves Saint Laurent was doing. But the clothes never sold. 'Women only didn't like information technology,' she said.
  43. ^ "Saint Laurent Retorts". The New York Times: thirty. 1971-02-xix. Retrieved 2022-01-11 . ...[C]ritics...attacked [Yves Saint Laurent'southward] World War II floozy look...When his mannequins paraded like 1940s streetwalkers..., 1 critic cried 'hideous' and a...news mag renamed him 'Yves St. Debacle.'.
  44. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1973-04-16). "Some Hems Volition Be Lower, Simply It'southward Not Worth the Worry". The New York Times: 47. Retrieved 2021-12-31 . After a brief flurry of interest in shorts for day and evening wear in the spring of 1971 on both sides of the Atlantic, women everywhere settled contentedly into trousers for practically all occasions....Blue jeans became fifty-fifty further entrenched equally the uniform of the young and experimentation was limited to unlike toppings for pants.
  45. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-01-13). "Fashion: A Look at the Uncomplicated Truth". The New York Times: B4. Retrieved 2022-01-09 . With a generation of office workers and executives going to work in T-shirts and blue jeans, formality in mode was condign a affair of the past....[I]t is possible for a woman to go anywhere, including black‐tie dinners, in a shirt and pants....Simplicity is the rule, and there's no need for a adult female to clutter her closets with a lot of clothes...It is role of the simplification of life that comes nether the heading of modernity. So is the fact that most wearing apparel are soft and unstructured too equally interchangeable.
  46. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1976-01-01). "seventy's Manner: Sportswear at the Superlative". The New York Times: 36. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . [T]he 1970's will be marked by wearing apparel divided into many easy pieces that can exist added to or subtracted from, according to the weather, personal preferences and the feeling of the moment.... Construction will go on to be simplified so that clothes go increasingly less bulky and more flowing. The manner of the 1970'due south is depression on bamboozlement, loftier on a natural look. Casual is the operative word.
  47. ^ Mount, jr., Roy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". The New York Times: 18. Retrieved 2021-12-08 . In the 1970'southward...[s]portswear emerged as the dominant theme, implying a relaxed fit and considerable versatility, since most clothes were made in interchangeable parts....For a number of years, it offered a serviceable way of dressing, geared to active women's lives, adjusting to vagaries of climate, adapting easily to travel requirements. As the sportswear onslaught connected, clothes lost their linings and interfacings, becoming softer, looser, less structured. Nearly everything became as comfortable to habiliment every bit a sweater.
  48. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1975-07-31). "Applause Meter Gets a Conditioning at Saint Laurent". The New York Times: xviii. Retrieved 2022-03-18 . ...[T]hey...joyously applauded a plain grey flannel coat with broad shoulders that wrapped over a pin‐striped tailored suit and a very total smock coat in gray flannel....They dear him when he is making mannish tailored suits with padded shoulders...
  49. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. pp. 249–252. In women'south fashion, 1978 was a year of cracking change. It began with women submerged under layers of soft shapeless wear...But the twelvemonth concluded with the same women shedding layers to emerge with a revamped style silhouette reminiscent of the 1940'due south, a await characterized past broad, even padded shoulders, tight waistlines, and shorter, straighter skirts....[D]esigners in Milan, Paris, and New York showed fall ready-to-wear collections that virtually simultaneously reached the same determination....wide-shouldered fashions, the pared-downward wait of fewer layers, and the neater waist...huge shoulders, puffed sleeves to emphasize width farther...[T]he mode message was clear: Broad shoulders were in.
  50. ^ Duka, John (1978-07-02). "Fashion Contour". The New York Times: SM6. Koko Hashim, vice president of Neiman‐Marcus [says]...'There has been an enormous modify in the silhouette, a broadening of the shoulders and narrowing of the hips — what we call the triangle... — that requires a reeducation of the consumer'.
  51. ^ Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1979-01-01). "Mode and Apparel (1978)". 1979 Britannica Volume of the Year. New York, New York, The states: Encyclopedia Britannica. p. 378. ISBN9780852293621. Every bit autumn approached, broader shoulders and slimmer hips conferred a trapezoid shape reminiscent of the 1940s...A major silhouette modify in 1978 emphasized a broadened shoulder...
  52. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-xi-12). "Why the Big Modify Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-xi-15 . Fashion this fall has taken a dramatic new turn. Line, cut and shape are all controlled by the new wide shoulder.
  53. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come up From". The New York Times: 240. The return of shoulder pads is the big news this fall.
  54. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-11). "Shaking Fashion". The New York Times: xxx. What thousands of fashion followers are muttering as they crisscross [Paris] to see the new fashions for fall and winter...is 'shoulders, shoulders, shoulders'.
  55. ^ Hyde, Nina Due south. (1977-10-24). "Thinking Big for Spring". The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . These [1977 presentations of jump 1978] collections will requite buyers and manufacturers the assurance to continue making these clothes and making them bigger. And often more broad-shouldered.
  56. ^ "1978 Broadway Suit Collection". Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. 'YSL's...mannequin...got ovations every time she sauntered out on the track in another version of the spencer jacket'.
  57. ^ "The Message from Paris Couture: The Tailored Suit is Back". The New York Times: 22. 1978-01-31. Retrieved 2021-11-12 . ...[T]he shoulders of the jackets seem specially exaggerated...
  58. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Large Modify Now". The New York Times: SM226. Retrieved 2021-xi-xv . Yves Saint Laurent — the most influential mode designer in the globe — is being credited with starting this fall's dramatic shift of silhouette....What Saint Laurent sprang on the fashion world last Jan when he introduced man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...has now get staple mode in Italy, France and America. As if by magic, wider-shouldered and leaner‐lined wearing apparel accept shown up everywhere at every price level. Fashion has taken a new turn.
  59. ^ Duka, John (1978-eleven-xiii). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. eleven (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11 . At Andrevie...shoulders were almost three feet wide.
  60. ^ "Peplums and Picasso". The Washington Post. 1979-07-26. Retrieved 2022-03-03 . It is back to the history books if you care to comprehend what the Paris style designers are up to...[T]here is a heavy dose of the 1940s in the fall designs, with broad-shouldered suits with fitted bodies, tightly nipped waistlines, and peplums, plus a heavy injection of the early 1900s...
  61. ^ Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1979). "Fashion and Dress". 1979 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1978. New York, New York, USA: Encyclopedia Britannica. pp. 378–379. ISBN9780852293621. Designer after designer showed...the 'retro' look...of the 1940'south....From the sometime days of Hollywood came puffed sleeves,...hats and veils,...rolled or pompadoured hairstyles of the 1940s,...seamed hose,...and fifty-fifty gloves.
  62. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. eleven (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11 . Lagerfeld...has brought back the Merry Widow corselet, whalebone stays and all.
  63. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-thirteen). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 111–112. Retrieved 2021-12-11 . On the Flash Gordon side of French ready-to-wear Retro are such designers as Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, and France Andrevie....At Montana, it took the course of...Italian fascist gone science-fiction fantasy....At Mugler,...a large-shouldered Flash Gordon jacket...
  64. ^ "Fashion View". The New York Times: SM6. 1979-12-30. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . ...Claude Montana's Mongolian Martian Await and Thierry Mugler's Star Trekesque gigantic shoulders....
  65. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Roofing the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. p. 252. Designers everywhere were also being influenced by the World War II era in some other way, as clothes took on a war machine look....[A]ccessories like Earth War II infantry caps, military ribbons, and bandolier belts abounded.
  66. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-14). "In America, Fashion every bit a Grace Annotation". Tne New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-11-12 . Forth with the giant pads came a kind of mindless toying with military looks...
  67. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-06). "The New Look, Hit or Miss?". The New York Times: 58. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . ...Perry Ellis's breezy designs with exaggerated, almost pillow‐padded shoulders...
  68. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-25). "Ellis Joins Blass in Fashion's Firmament". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . ...[T]he Ellis clothes...look admittedly comfortable and relaxed...Shoulders are padded...Mr. Ellis said he had no compunctions about adding padded glaze to padded jacket to padded sweater.
  69. ^ Duka, John (1978-07-11). "Norma Kamali is Heading Out on Her Own". The New York Times: C2. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . Norma Kamali...has become famous for her parachute dresses, sexy, shirred bathing suits, pegged, draped skirts...and...padded shoulders.
  70. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-xi-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: SM226. Retrieved 2021-11-15 . This fall, [Calvin Klein] narrowed [his dress]...and added a fleck of shoulder padding.
  71. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-04). "In Milan, the Archetype Prevailed Over the Romantic". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . Armani's...souvenir for fall is a long jacket suit with military shoulders...It accompanies pants, skirts or culottes and it sometimes has epaulets....[Southward]oftening agents accept the curse off the military wait....It has wide, padded shoulders...
  72. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder Information technology". The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . In the '40s, the shoulder shape was what Lopato calls 'saddle-shaped,' or sloping in the middle. The pads were rigid. Today the shoulder line is straight, says Lopato, and the pads soft and more pliable.
  73. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-xi-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Today, shoulder pads are...oftentimes synthetic of foam, nonwoven polyester filler, reprocessed cotton felt, ozite and sanforized or nylon thread...The result is a pad which retains its shape and doesn't atomize when washed....Average weight is about one ounce.
  74. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-04). "In Milan, the Archetype Prevailed Over the Romantic". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . Bergdorf Goodman's Leonard Hanken...remark[ed], 'We'll have to train a whole new generation of tailors to put in shoulder pads properly. It's a lost fine art'.
  75. ^ Hyde, Nina South. (1979-09-twenty). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . 'I'm giving more than instruction on how to make and place shoulder pads,' says Elizabeth Simmons, owner of Ardis School of Design.
  76. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change At present". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-eleven-15 . Saint Laurent['southward]...man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...looked not only boldly ambitious but startling and totally unexpected...
  77. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-04-eleven). "Not-So-Fix-to-Article of clothing Apparel". The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . ...[M]any [buyers] had problem selling exaggerated shoulders...'I can't run into women getting into cars with shoulders so broad,' said Wendall Ward, vice president of Garfinckel's...
  78. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1979". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 364. ISBN0-670-80172-0. A hard, constructed, uncompromising silhouette prevailed: padded shoulders, sometimes three feet wide...
  79. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-xiv). "In America, Fashion equally a Grace Annotation". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-11-12 . ...[Due south]houlder pads...large and bulky plenty to grace the shoulders of Gargantua.
  80. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. [Shoulder pad manufacturer Harold] Lopato picks upwards what looks similar a hunk of mattress stuffing...'This,' he pronounces proudly, 'is our iii-inch-thick shoulder pad which we worked out with [designer] Neb Kaiserman.'
  81. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-10-21). "Fashion From Paris". The Washington Postal service . Retrieved 2021-12-19 . [B]ig pagoda shoulders...were [Cardin's] favorite silhouette...last March.
  82. ^ Taylor, Angela (1979-09-07). "Claude Montana's Infinite-Age Styles Bear upon Down on West 54th Street". The New York Times: A16. Retrieved 2021-12-eighteen . [Montana'due south] shoulders...turned upwardly at the ends, like pagoda roofs.
  83. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-06). "The New Look, Hit or Miss?". The New York Times: 58. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . [T]he new wait took — by and large in the less extreme versions, only with a few surprises. Broader shoulders have been accepted, up to a point.
  84. ^ Hyde, Nina Due south. (1979-09-xx). "Fashion: Shoulder Information technology". The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . ...[A]s the exaggerated showpieces were translated into saleable styles – with the broadened shoulder tapering to the waist and hemline – women responded positively.
  85. ^ "Autumn Inspirations, 1979". Couture Attraction. 2013-08-05. Retrieved 2021-12-21 .
  86. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Broad View". The New York Times: 69. ...[S]houlders [are] now [1985] proportioned to sports-folio, rather than style-page, dimensions...Customers...don't seem to exist bothered by the exaggerated shoulders. Later all, they brand the waist and hips look smaller.
  87. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-03-23). "Designers Say It's the Coincidental, Rumpled Wait for Men this Year". The Washington Mail . Retrieved 2022-02-07 . Following the direction women's clothes accept taken for the last ii or three years, designers await men to adopt a looser, freer, softer look in fashion...Changes include: Jackets with less inner construction, the built-in features that give a garment its shape. Instead, the dress are supposed to accept on the shape of the wearer and exist comfortable, like a sweater. Softer, more loosely woven natural fabrics that allow jacket sleeves to be pushed up and collars turned up to underscore a more casual, even rumpled wait. Apparel cut more loosely....American designers...refer to it as 'unconstructed'...
  88. ^ Salmans, Sandra (1974-08-25). "Seventh Avenue". The New York Times: 96. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . ...[T]he Big Look...was pioneered in Paris a year ago by Kenzo Takada...with absurdly big skirts and coats....[T]he look features long skirts, dropped shoulders, dolman sleeves and big armholes, blouson jackets, bravado capes, and loose dresses–all laid on with layers of cloth.
  89. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1974". Faddy History of 20th Century Way. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 337. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Kenzo anticipated a major alter this winter by creating a full, circular skirt, easily caught by the wind...The replacement of the curt, kicky skirt by the longer, fuller style was the most of import alter in the silhouette...The new glaze and cape shapes were also looser, fuller and longer – the hemline was anywhere from 3 inches below the knee to the ankle. This voluminous, unconstructed style was christened the 'Big Await'.
  90. ^ La Ferla, Ruth (1990-10-21). "Mode: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani". The New York Times: 55. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . [Armani's] career has been punctuated by a series of radical gestures, beginning with the unconstructed blazer of the mid-1970's - his epochal creation....The blazer, a calculatedly rumpled affair, featured sloping shoulders, narrow lapels, baggy pockets and an adulterate line. More importantly, it was endowed with a mobility previously unknown in men'southward adapt jackets, except on Savile Row. Information technology had the kind of condolement found only in sports wearable, which he achieved in part by stripping out much of its cumbersome lining and padding.
  91. ^ Alexander, Ron (1979-09-16). "Shoulder Information technology, Men: Padding is Back". The New York Times: CN21. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . Even men who shrug at fashion volition probably discover themselves in jackets with padded shoulders this fall. Wide shoulders are back...Calvin Klein['s]...shoulders are broad, non farthermost, just there is definite padding....Pierre Cardin refers to his new silhouette as 'an upside-downwardly triangle',...designing apparel with broader shoulders...Yves Saint Laurent...is building [shoulders] upwards again....Bill Kaiserman advocates...'strong but not extreme' shoulders....Lee Wright designs...wearable...inspired by the Italian V-silhouette...
  92. ^ Machalaba, Nick. "Exclusive Archival Images from DNR [Daily News Record]: European Menswear". Women'southward Wear Daily. Fairchild Media. Retrieved 2021-12-18 . A model poses in Pierre Cardin'southward double-breasted adapt with pagoda shoulders during the French men'due south habiliment designer manner show in New York on Oct. 8, 1979.
  93. ^ Russell, Mary (1979-03-04). "Men's Mode". The New York Times: SM19. Retrieved 2021-12-ten . Armani's 1979 jackets are wide at the shoulder with a narrowing at the waist and depression button closing.
  94. ^ La Ferla, Ruth (1990-ten-21). "Style: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani". The New York Times: 55. Retrieved 2021-12-10 . At the end of the 1970's, Armani altered his style dramatically. Taking his design cues from Hollywood costumes of the 1930's and 40's, he widened the lapels of his suits and extended and padded the shoulders.
  95. ^ Katan, Five. "Women's Shoulder Pads". Retrieved 19 November 2015.
  96. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Visitor. pp. 249–252. (run into previous Larkin citation)
  97. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-12-29). "This Season, Jackets Shape Up Shorter". The New York Times: A15. Retrieved 2021-12-08 . Shoulders tend to be padded now or given greater width through puffs at the peak of the sleeves...And the peplum jacket is reappearing...It'southward part of mode's retro mood that...echoes...the 1940'due south.
  98. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-04-10). "Impresarios of Fashion Preside at Les Halles". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-12-08 . Karl Lagerfeld['s]...jackets have peplums that jut out from sharply belted waistlines.
  99. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-25). "Paris: A Peplum and Puffed Sleeve Revival". The New York Times: C16. Retrieved 2021-12-08 . The shape that Paris couturiers seem to accept agreed upon for autumn is the tightly fitted jacket with a small peplum...[west]ith puffed-top, leg-of-mutton sleeves
  100. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-12-08 . ...Karl Lagerfeld pronounces, 'Shoulders are the roof of a business firm'.
  101. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-xi-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-fifteen . (come across previous McEvoy citations)
  102. ^ "Shoulder pads: A history". The Independent.
  103. ^ "Way Icon: Margaret Thatcher". oxfordstudent.com.
  104. ^ Amy De La Haye 1988, Manner Source Book, London, Quarto Publishing, 170, ISBN 0-356-15928-0
  105. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-11-15 . (see previous McColl citation)
  106. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-25). "Ellis Joins Blass in Fashion'due south Firmament". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-x . Mr. Ellis said he had no compunctions nigh calculation padded coat to padded jacket to padded sweater.
  107. ^ "Shoulder Pads". V&A Explore the Collections . Retrieved 2021-12-xi .
  108. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-04-09). "Paris Fashions Unveiled in Super Basin Style". The New York Times: D8. Retrieved 2021-12-08 . Montana and Mugler both pioneered the behemothic shoulder‐pad motility terminal year [1978]...
  109. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-11-fifteen . As for Claude Montana, who is to big shoulders what Alexander Graham Bell is to the phone, manner is simple: 'Shoulders forever,' he says.
  110. ^ "Poof! Shoulder pads puff back". New York Daily News.
  111. ^ Glamour Magazine. "Trend Warning: Shoulder Pads Are Back!". Glamour.
  112. ^ "Our Favorite Throwback Trend Has a History of Female Empowerment". Coveteur. 2019-04-04. Retrieved 2020-12-19 .
  113. ^ Kim, Leena (2020-eleven-09). "Long Live Alexis Carrington: Dynasty Shoulders Are Dorsum!". Town & Country . Retrieved 2020-12-xix .

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